Dominica from above and below

In the middle of Middleham Falls.

After a night of endless rain, the Indian River has a milky-turquoise color. Elvis, our guide, is rowing his small boat through the river delta to Tia Dalma's shack, known from Pirates of the Caribbean. Strictly speaking, it's a replica of the filming location. The original shack, where the voodoo priestess gifts Jack Sparrow a jar of dirt, has been swept away by a hurricane.

Tia Dalma's shack, a filming location for Pirates of the Caribbean.

Next stop: the bar where Johnny and Naomie, Keira and Orlando spent their breaks from filming. Three cups of grapefruit juice for us and rum punch for our guide, then we continue our boat trip. This early in the morning, we almost have the river landscape to ourselves. Lush green palm fronds curve above our heads. It rustles. A heron flies up and disappears into the treetops. A crab raises its claws from a mangrove root.

“Beware of the alligators,” Elvis says and bursts into laughter a second later. "Just kidding. We don't have any dangerous animals. Neither in the water nor on land.”

The Indian River is named after the Caribbean natives, the Kalinagos.

“I’ll keep you safe”

Dominicans take every opportunity to emphasize how safe their country is. Halfway between Martinique and Guadeloupe, the bean-shaped island exudes different vibes than the French outer departments.

As soon as you arrive in Roseau, half-covered huts contrast with the cruise ship that is moored nearby. Reggae music greets us as we check in at the fishing port. A few men smoke their joints and quickly push a boat aside to make space for our dinghy. The people are helpful, the water is rolly, the environment is chaotic and colorful.

In 2023, the GDP per capita in Dominica was around 8,100 Euro - in Martinique they had more than three times as much at their disposal at a good 27,000 Euro. Tourism also has room for improvement. Foreign guests mainly come from the USA and other Caribbean countries. Plus some individual tourists, who like to hike and Pirates of the Caribbean fans.

Although ocean liners moor in Roseau, these tourists don't stay long and are back on board by dinner at the latest. Many sailors skip Dominica. We stay for five days.

Business-minded:

Marcus rents out moorings in Roseau.

While looking for an anchorage in Roseau, Marcus rushes towards us on his boat. “I’ll keep you safe,” he promises.

It's interesting what kind of mental cinema his words cause. I wonder if he's addressing concerns that keep his clientele awake at night. Does he unconsciously stir up fears or at least, takes them into account? Over a beer, Marcus explains that there used to be attacks on yachts in his town, but not anymore since he's been providing security.

Marcus’ buoys cost approximately 20 Euro per night, but you can dispose of your rubbish with him and use his private dinghy jetty: quite a good package deal. In the north of the island, at the large anchorage of St. Rupert's Bay, the PAYS company offers a similar service, whether it makes sense or not.

The Caribbean Safety & Security Net records hardly any crime against sailors in Dominica these days. It’s a different situation than in Martinique, where dinghies are regularly stolen. However, significantly more ships anchor at the busy spots in Sainte Anne and Le Marin than in the whole of Dominica.

Hot sulfur water in Tia’s Hot Spa, Wotten Waven.

On the island, you can find: An Imperial Amazon adorning the coat of arms. Passion fruits the size of oranges. Extremely expensive supermarkets (for German standards) that call themselves “Best Price”. Chaotic car rental companies that only communicate via WhatsApp. A town full of sulfur spring spas (Wotten Waven) and fantastic nature everywhere.

In the Soufliere Scotts Head Marine Reserve, we moor Asja to a buoy. We expect a diving boat to send us off at any time, but no one comes. Here, near a sunken volcanic crater, hot springs bubble up from the seabed. They give the reef its name: Champagne Reef.

Stella paddling at Champagne Reef.

In our diving gear, Daniel and I sink into a wonderland of sponges and corals. Yellow tubes stretch out towards us like fingers. Baby fish emerge from massive purple vases. Spiny porcupinefish and moray eels wear their camouflage colors.

It's enchanting how new worlds open up 10 or 20 meters below sea level - without having to do anything significant yourself. Just get involved with all the equipment - it's worth it. Champagne Reef is accessible for beginners and people who don't want to go particularly deep.

Two days later, we drive to the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, Dominica's World Heritage Site. The left-hand traffic and the potholes turn even the drive to Middleham Falls into an adventure. Its parking lot awaits us behind a new building project of hobbit houses. There is only one other car parked.

At the start of the trail, we have to cross a small stream. It’s shallow, but full of shaky stones. We can now say goodbye to clean - or dry - feet. A few minutes in, we already compare who has the dirtiest shoes.

Our path leads over buttress roots, scree and puddles into the green thicket. We literally immerse ourselves in the rainforest. It smacks and crunches under our footsteps. A noise announces the fall long before you see it. Our hiking trail takes us downstairs to a viewing platform where the spray tickles our faces. Middleham Falls plunges around 80 meters from the canopy.

A stream at the start of the trail ensures that you get wet, muddy feet.

Out of the many hikes that Domica offers, this waterfall is a great compromise for families: not a boring, crowded hiking highway. Not too short, at two and a half hours altogether (including a swimming stop), but not as long and strenuous as the Boiling Lake tour. And you don't need a guide, but you can hire one, e.g. if you like to find out more about the plants in the jungle.

Roots and fallen trees block our path.

We never felt unsafe in five days in Dominica. The craziest moment was after we arrived at Prince Rupert Bay. A PAYS representative greets us. Providence immediately offers us a buoy and various excursions. Quite typical in Dominica and many other Caribbean countries. But this time, we pass.

"Thanks. We’re anchoring today. And we have already booked an Indian River tour,” I say truthfully. Other sailors have recommended Elvis and I wanted to schedule the trip for Stella's birthday a few days in advance. I expect Providence to retreat.

Instead, he protests: “I’ve been here first. You have to hire me.”

“We don’t have to do anything,” says Daniel.

At the same moment, Elvis appears with his boat. The PAYS man approaches him. Swears and gestures. The volume increases, it sounds like a bizarre argument. No politeness is left, just aggressive competition. It feels like it takes forever until Providence finally drives away.

As annoying as it was, incidents like this make traveling interesting, I think, because they bring us closer to other cultures. Like tiny disturbances that force us to put away our Western European goggles.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.

Marcel Proust