Close to the Fort
19/09/24
Berlenga Grande
3:00
15 Meters below us, our anchor moves across the rocks. It scratches and drills into my ears. Breaking away is not an option as the cliffs of the Berlengas are within reach. And the wind, although weak, blows constantly towards the island. We don't get much rest that night. At three o'clock, Daniel goes on deck again. He adds a few meters of chain, adjusts our anchor alarm and continues to sleep outdoors for a faster response.
The day before
As North Sea sailors, we are used to planning our trips. If the current and tides demand it, we just set the alarm clock for unpleasant times. But since sailing in Spain, this kind of pressure has disappeared. We have become carefree and enjoy the vacation mode. And after two nights at the marina of Clube Naval in Nazaré (close to the city, modern showers, helpful Marineros, great value for money) we didn't really get going. Also, we had to do a lot tacking against the wind on our way.
We only reach Berlenga Grande after sunset. Even in the dark, there is something impressive about our anchorage. 2000 years ago, the archipelago was a sacred site for the Phoenicians. Later, monks took care of the shipwrecked people who washed ashore. Until the monks themselves, plagued by hunger and illness, left the Berlengas again. Fort São João Baptista was built on the ruins of the monastery in the 17th century. It is looking down on us. The lights of the tiny settlement glitter on the hillsides.
Dark water slaps against our ship. We strapped on headlamps as we search for an anchorage among dozens of fishing boats. Every buoy is occupied. The boats are sitting close together and the shore is… way too close. Somehow we squeeze our yacht in between them. But as the night wears on, the tide rises and shakes the ships. The entire anchorage field swells.
9:15
It has been a restless night, but in the morning, we have the island to ourselves. It feels like we are the only humans here. We eat breakfast outside, surrounded by water that is the color of Gatorade in daylight. “Who needs the Caribbean,” says Stella.
“You can’t stay here,” says a tour operator shortly afterwards and asks us to anchor further north. In front of the fort we are probably in the way of the excursion boats that cross fromPeniche every day. Their massive silhouettes are already approaching on the horizon.
The small beach at Berlenga Grande.
10:00
After moving, we lower the dinghy into the water and set course for the main island. It’s a fantastic experience to navigate through the caves and grottos. Cormorants sit on beige-pink granite rocks and let the sun shine on their feathers. The water is so clear it's like looking through glass. It's teeming with fish. Swarms pile up on top of each other on the surface and only move away in the very last moment. We see more fish than on many dives. No wonder that there is a lot of diving and snorkeling activity on the Berlengas. Close to the archipelago, aquanauts might even come across a sunfish. Bream, perch and wrasse cavort in every nook and cranny. Even if you look down on the small beach while hiking, shoals of fish color the water.
One of the privileges of sailing is that you get to places that are difficult to access. When the excursion boats leave again, we sailors can stay and feel a little like Robinson. Just with the luxury of a full fridge and warm cabins.
We raise anchor in the afternoon, as the window is good for the onward journey to Cascais and Madeira. But just being able to stay is a blessing. In moments like this, the idea of going further haunts my thoughts. To the Galapagos Islands. To Bora Bora and Vanuatu.
Anyone traveling to the Berlengas individually should register here.
New anchorage.
* Scenic anchorage in the south of the Berlengas with views of the fort
* Rocky bottom
* Little protection, swell, a restless night is to be expected
* A lot of traffic from excursion boats in the summer - there wasn't quite as much going on in mid-September.
* The island offers hiking trails and water sports, a cafe and a restaurant. The most beautiful are the rock caves and grottos, which can be wonderfully explored with a dinghy.
